Climbing Mount Kenya via the Naro Moru Route: A Personal Journey
Standing at 5,199 meters (17,057 feet), Mount Kenya is Africa’s second-highest peak and one of the most breath taking climbs on the continent. Unlike Kilimanjaro’s gradual slopes, Mount Kenya offers rugged terrain, dramatic cliffs, and a true mountaineering experience. My decision to tackle it via the Naro Moru Route, known as the fastest but toughest path to ‘Point Lenana’, with just a ‘Guide’ (Moses) to accompany me, was to challenge myself individually, and so, we began what would be an exhilarating and humbling experience.
Why the Naro Moru Route?
The Naro Moru Route is famous (or infamous) for its steep ascent and the infamous ‘Vertical Bog’, a section of knee-deep mud that tests your endurance early on. I chose it for its direct approach, stunning views, and the challenge it promised. Little did I know just how much it would push me.
Day 1: Naro Moru Gate to Met Station
The journey began at Naro Moru Gate (2,400m), and as we moved gradually up, I was worried about how the coming altitude would affect me. However, the first stretch through the serene rainforest really helped me acclimatise, and the sounds of monkeys chattering overhead, a careful lookout for any elephants joining us and any Leopards coming back from a late night party, kept me on my toes! After about four hours, we reached the Met Station (3,050m), my first stop-over, wrapped in layers and staying in the log cabins on bunk-beds with the temperature dropping sharply – gave me my first real taste of mountain cold. Using the outside toilet with a torch to show the way, I had been told that the large rock opposite the cabin was where a Leopard sometimes at night, no doubt, like me, viewing the billion stars on show! Luckily, all I got to see were the stars and not the Leopard!
I had trained but was I really ready for what was to come?
Day 2: Met Station to Mackinder’s Camp (The Vertical Bog)
The real test began early. The trail quickly turned steep, leading us into the infamous ‘Vertical Bog’. Picture this: sinking into thick, cold mud with every step, slipping, laughing, and groaning as we hauled ourselves up – though it seemed like Moses was just floating across the bog! It was exhausting, but oddly fun – like a brutal obstacle course set in the middle of a mountain!
After hours of struggle, we emerged above the treeline into the ‘alpine zone’, where giant lobelias and surreal rock formations made the effort worth it. Finally, we reached Mackinder’s Camp (4,200m), where the air was thin, and headaches reminded us of the altitude.
Day 3: Summit Push to Point Lenana
Moses had told me that we needed to wake up at 2:30 AM, I bundled-on every layer I had for the final ascent. A gruelling scramble over loose scree and rock in freezing darkness, guided only by a torch. My legs burned, my lungs ached, and I stopped every few minutes because of the breathing and altitude. Of course, Moses waited patiently for me as he smoked a cigarette while I couldn’t even breathe!
As dawn broke, the first light painted the glaciers pink, and suddenly, Point Lenana (4,985m) was within reach. With the last of my energy, I pushed forward, reaching the summit just as the sun fully rose.
Standing there, watching the shadow of the mountain stretch across the clouds below, I felt an overwhelming mix of exhaustion and euphoria. The jagged peaks of Batian and Nelion loomed nearby, reminding me that while I had conquered Lenana, the mountain still held greater challenges.
The Descent & Reflections
Descending via the same route was tough on the knees but filled with laughter and relief. Back at Met Station, I collapsed into my bunk, sore but exhilarated and enjoying each muscle ache as a sign of what I had thought I might not be able to do but had done.
Lessons from the Climb:
Respect the altitude – It affects everyone differently. Don’t take any jeeps to the Met Station as their is a track and people do do that – walk there, it will start to acclimatise you. Listen to your body as this is a mountain where people have died because of the altitude.
Embrace the struggle – The ‘Vertical Bog’ was miserable, but now it’s my favourite story.
The summit is just a bonus – The real journey is in the climb itself, the people, the landscapes, and the small victories mattered just as much.
Climbing Mount Kenya via Naro Moru was one of the hardest things I’ve done, but also one of the most rewarding. If you’re considering it, prepare well, train hard, and savour every step – even the muddy, exhausting ones!
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